Best bespoke and ready to wear shoemakers from around the world.

The art of shoemaking is championed around the world by artisans and craftspeople alike who offer a wealth of experience in this heritage-rich tradition. 

Master shoemakers come in all shapes and sizes whether you’re considering a traditionally made English Goodyear-welted shoe, the sleek and distinctly European silhouette of Italy or the emerging Spanish, Japanese and Australian shoemakers. 

There is an extensive range of men's and women's handmade shoes offered as ready to wear by many shoemakers but if off the shelf isn’t what you had in mind the option of bespoke footwear, also known as ‘custom’ or ‘made to order’ is a unique experience between you, your feet and the shoemaker of choice. The bespoke shoe journey can take months or even years for your shoes to arrive depending on the shoemaker and their availability but its guaranteed to be a wait worthwhile. 

While the focus of a bespoke shoe is on the style of the shoe or boot and the customisation involved in the process is much more in-depth including the measuring of the client's foot, the noting of peculiarities in the foot, and the transposing of the measures and notes into a wooden or plastic model of the foot, called the ‘last.’ It’s the custom last which provides precision sizing/fitting but this accuracy is only available with a bespoke service and comes with a considerable price tag compared to a ready to wear counterpart. For several bespoke shoemakers the ability to offer both has been a significant development in building a handmade footwear company and removes the geographical boundaries previous held by bespoke only. 

In alphabetical order we explore several of the leading English shoemakers and others from around the globe who all offer a unique approach on traditional shoe-making. 

Alden:

The Alden Shoe Company was founded in 1884 by Charles H. Alden in Middleborough, Massachusetts. Alden specialises in handcrafted men's leather boots and dress shoes, such as Oxfords, Blüchers, loafers, and Chukka boots. 

Today, Alden is the only original New England shoe and bootmaker remaining of the hundreds who began so long ago and continues to be a family owned business, still carrying forward a tradition of quality genuine-welted shoemaking that is exceptional in every way.

Alongside Alden’s seasonal ready to wear collection, they have collaborated with several brands and stockists including Leffot, Frans Boone, Need Supply Co. And Unionmade. 

Barker Shoes (England):

Founded in 1880 by Arthur Barker, Barker shoes has been making men's and women's handmade shoes in the Northamptonshire village of Earls Barton for 140 years. Using traditional manufacturing methods to make an extensive range of brogues, Oxford and Derby shoes and boots. The Barker ready to wear seasonal collections can be browsed in their London flagship stores and stockists around the world including ISETAN, Hankyu and BonneGueule. Barker also offers a made to order service where they have previously manufactured footwear of some of the finest brands. 

Crockett & Jones (England):

Established in 1879 by two brothers in law, Charles Jones and Sir James Crockett, Crockett & Jones are makers of fine shoes in Northampton. The company was founded with a grant from the Thomas White Trust and specialised in the manufacturing of Goodyear-welted footwear. 

The first Crockett & Jones factory was a small building on Exeter Road which housed the initial 20 employees. Family was crucial from the start as the firm employed two of Charles’ brothers, his sister and his wife. 

Today, Crockett & Jones is owned and managed by the founding family who emphasise quality and timeless style with flagship stores in London, Brussels, Paris and New York alongside an international stockists. Alongside their ready to wear collection, Crockett & Jones offers a special order and fully bespoke service available at the Parisian Flagship shop on 14 Rue Chauveau-Lagarde, La Madeleine. This store houses the workshop of the ‘Maître Bottier’, Dimitri Gomez, who hand-crafts bespoke shoes of the highest order, using top grade leathers from the finest tanneries.

 

Edward Green (England):

Founded by Northampton shoemaker Edward Green in 1890 with a promise “Excellence without compromise”, Edward Green became associated with the finest English Goodyear welted footwear. Edward Green started in the industry as a twelve-year-old apprentice and was driven by the ambition to make a better class of shoe. He established his own workshop in Northampton in 1890, gathering around him the town’s most illustrious craftsmen, each an expert in their respective field, and sourced the best materials for them to work with. 

The company was sold in 1977 by Green’s nephew, Michael Green to an American leather entrepreneur, Marley Hodgson, but was later sold to another bespoke shoemaker, John Hlustik, an expert at finishing. Upon Hlustik’s death in 2000, the company continued by his partner, Hilary Freeman. 

Today, Edward Green continues to champion the mastery of shoemaking techniques that’s been passed through the generations. The seasonal Edward Green handmade shoe collections are presented in their retail stores where they offer a custom made service drawing from their century of shoe-making experience, customers can select from a range of patterns, lasts, leathers and details for a shoe unique to them. The international stockists of Edward Green include Mr Porter, The Rake Atelier and Saks Fifth Avenue. 

George Cleverley (England):

George Cleverley is a Bespoke London Shoemaker recognised for manufacturing handmade shoes in England of the finest quality. George Cleverley the man was born in August 1898 into a shoemaking family in London. George moved to Colchester in Essex with his parents when he was aged two and spent his childhood selling bootlaces & polish. After finishing his apprenticeship at 15, he was called up to the Army for World War I and stationed in London before joining an army boot factory in Calais, France. 

After the war he joined Tuczec, a high society London shoemaker on Clifford Street, Mayfair. He remained there for 38 years. George left Tuczec in 1958 to start up his own business. G.J.Cleverley of Cork Street, Mayfair, London. 

On Cork Street he furthered his reputation to include some of the most illustrious names in society and became known for making the Cleverley shape - a graceful, chisel-toed shoe which became signature to his extraordinary craft. 

George Cleverley offers a ready to wear collection alongside its highly demanded bespoke offering led by John Carnera and Adam Law who control the bespoke shoe craftsmen and oversee all stages of the shoemaking process. 

Hiro Yanagimachi (Japan):

Japanese Master shoemaker Hiro Yanagimachi has been making shoes by  hand since 1999. After studying industrial design and working as a designer, Hiro Yanagimachi moved to England to pursue his personal sense of design. Inspired by the charm of shoemaking, he studied at London Cordwainers College learning the techniques and culture of bespoke shoemaking at places such as John Lobb. 

Hiro Yanagimachi approach to bespoke shoemaking values the tradition but is forward looking with the introduction of a rubber sole option in 2011 while continuing to development his made of order service programme. 

Jalan Sriwijaya (Indonesia):

Jalan Sriwijaya was founded by by Ted Teh Chandra in 1919 where the shoe factory originally manufactured military boots. The founders son Rudy Sperman trained in Northampton, England and furthermore learned leather product France before the long awaited Jalan Sriwijaya brand was born in 2003. 

JM Weston (France):

JM Weston was founded by Édouard Blanchard in 1891 in the heart of Limousin, a region where tanning and leatherwork were a tradition. Manufacturing mens and womens shoes Édouard was soon joined by his son Eugène, who looked to the United States and its modernity for inspiration. Eugène spent time in Weston (near Boston, United States) to learn Goodywear-welted construction before returning to Limoges.  

In 1922 Eugène crossed paths with Monsieur Viard, a great figure in Parisian social life which resulted in the pair joining forces and registering the JM Weston name before opening the first boutique on Boulevard de Courcelles. This was the foundation for the brands well-known Parisian spirit. 

In 1974 JM Weston was acquired by the Descours family and development began by increasing the number of stores with openings in Paris and throughout France. Today, JM Weston has several flagship stores offering the latest collection alongside a customisation service. 

John Lobb (England):

The John Lobb family business began in 1849 in London and the early 1900’s in Paris. John Lobb manufactures and retails a luxury brand of shoes and boots mainly for men and women.  

John Lobb himself was born in 1829 in Cornwall, south-west England, but made his way to London as a young man as an apprentice bootmaker. Following a successful period in Australia making boots for the miners of the gold rush, he returned to London to set up his first shop on Regent Street in 1866.  

In 1976, John Lobb sold its Paris workshop to Hermes, which was allowed to use its name in France and later licensed to open John Lobb shops around the world. However, the London bespoke workshop, John Lobb Ltd, remained in the hands of the family, and continues to operate independently from its premises at 9 St James’s Street.  

Only the French John Lobb offers ready-to-wear shoes which are produced in a traditional English factory in Northampton. Meanwhile, all of their made-to-order and bespoke shoes are completely hand-crafted from their Parisian workshop. 

Other notable shoemakers include Church’s, Trickers, Antontio Meccariello, Ludwig Reiter and R.M. William.